Durcal to Lanjaron

Introduction:

After our long flight to Spain from New Zealand via London with no layover, we were glad of a couple of days being tourists in Malaga and Granada. Then we discovered that on Sundays buses did not go to our planned walking departure point, Jayena. Luckily Rob figured out that we could instead go to Durcal and start from there. So that's what we did. Here is a brief account of walking a small section of the GR7. With thanks to those who have gone before and written up accounts.

Day 1: Sunday 7 April 2013

Today was a cracker. We were out just after 7.00 am, and had only a few minutes to wait for a bus to the station. No one could understand the word Durcal, goodness knows how it is supposed to be pronounced. But we eventually managed to get tickets for the 8.30 bus. Got a bit of a shock when we tried to get money on our debit card. It spat out a notice saying insufficient funds. Well, that is what we think it said in Spanish. Luckily the eftpos card worked. We were soon on our way to Durcal, a bit of a tiki-tour through other areas of Granada. 50 minutes later we were dropped in Durcal, right next to a good and busy cafe. Lots of cyclists, seemed to be a race on. We had an excellent coffee and some fried rolls called torros. We couldn't eat them all.

Hoisted packs and managed to find the right road to Niguelas, setting off about 10. No one spoke enough English to show us where to go but it all worked out. Once on the GR7 it was mostly well signposted, but they have a funny system of putting a post on the track you should not take. If you look closely you see a cross which means don’t go that way.

It was a joy to be walking again. Rob had his binoculars out in no time and had a good bird spotting day. The weather was great, cold at first and in the light breeze, but hot when the sun broke out. 

Niguelas was pretty but so quiet, and we found the few people we saw a tad unfriendly. We took a steep route out of town, a variation on the GR7. It was hot work, and meant we missed seeing Acequios but it was ok. We saw a cyclist and 3 walkers, and later one other bloke. A couple of cars and then nothing. It was blissful and peaceful and we loved the walk. We were mainly on dirt track and easy going apart from the climbing.

Lunch in the sun and a few bird watching stops and rests. Part of the day we wandered through almond fields, at other times scrubby veg and pines. The air smelt beautiful and clean away from the pollution of towns and cars. A final 7km descent into Lanjaron was rather pretty, but we were both feeling tired and sore by the time we reached the charming town.

A bit upmarket, we had trouble finding a hotel, and after wandering a long way through town, we back tracked and off the main road found Hotel Manolette. Funny old woman reluctantly got off her chair and found a young man who checked us in for 35 euro. Good room with bathroom and a sunny window. We have hardly moved since we got here, so tired are we. But what a great day.

Agreed to go to the first place we saw to eat, and so we did. A little bar with delicious vino tinto (Riojas?) and the best pork we have ever eaten. And chips, no other veg. Spanish do not seem to be big on veg.

Found a wonderful jamon shop, and bought slices of ham, cheese and an interesting looking chorizo. The proprietor got me to stand with the knife in my hand and a huge ham for a photo! Got a couple of pastries for dessert across the road, then headed back for the best night's sleep we have had. Yay. Somewhere we saw bats.